Müstair and the Swiss National Park

The abbey was founded in the 8th century. According to legend, after his coronation as King of the Lombards, Charlemagne was caught in a snowstorm on the Umbrail Pass and escaped unharmed; in gratitude he is said to have founded the abbey. By its own account the abbey has been inhabited ever since its foundation, and Benedictine nuns live here. In 1810 the abbey became a priory, in 1894 frescoes of the 8th century were discovered in a dark attic, and from 1947 to 1951 the wall paintings in the abbey church were uncovered.

In 1983 the World Heritage Committee added the abbey to the UNESCO list, together with the Abbey Precinct of St Gall and the Old City of Bern. Research, monument conservation and restoration also work together at the abbey, in the SAVAIR competence centre.

According to the abbey, the abbey church holds the largest and best-preserved cycle of early medieval wall paintings; the oldest monumental statue of Charlemagne bears witness to the foundation. The museum is housed in the Planta Tower of the 10th century, which the abbey calls the oldest residential and defensive tower in the Alps, and tells twelve centuries of building and art history as well as the life of the Benedictine nuns.

The Holy Cross Chapel is a jewel of the Carolingian period: on the lower floor lies, according to the abbey, the oldest dated beamed ceiling in Europe, from the year 788. It can only be visited on a guided tour. There is also the archaeological archive with the famous interlace stones of the 8th century. Church, museum and chapel are unheated: dress warmly. Information and tickets are available in the abbey shop la butia; hours and prices are on the abbey's website. The church and the ground floor of the museum are accessible for wheelchair users, the three upper floors of the tower are not.

The Val Müstair lies in the south-easternmost corner of Switzerland and is recognised as the Biosfera Val Müstair. Müstair makes a good half-day trip and combines well with Glurns or Lake Reschen.

The national park was founded on 1 August 1914 and is therefore the oldest national park in the Alps; it is Switzerland's largest wilderness area and its only national park. It covers 170 square kilometres, of which just over half is without vegetation, 28 percent forest and 21 percent alpine meadow. By the criteria of the International Union for Conservation of Nature it belongs to the highest protection category. The name Ofen Pass recalls the former mining, which needed a great deal of timber; since 1914 nature has been reclaiming the land.

The Ofen Pass road runs straight through the park; along it there are car parks (P1 to P10, with a limited number of spaces) and PostBus stops. The 21 official routes add up to 100 kilometres, two of them alpine. Many hikes have large differences in altitude and climb above the tree line. Because the weather can change quickly, set out well prepared; the mobile network does not cover the whole area.

The rules are strict: you may not leave the marked trails and the signposted rest areas, animals, plants, wood and stones may not be taken, litter must not be left, bicycles and aircraft are forbidden, as are swimming and fires, and staying in the park is allowed only during the day. The park rangers monitor the rules and may penalise violations.

Dogs may not be brought in, not even on a lead. This applies throughout the park. If you travel with a dog, leave it at the hotel or at home; whether dogs are allowed into the abbey in Müstair, please ask the abbey beforehand.

The park names the best places on its website: marmots can be seen on the pastures, for example at Alp Grimmels or Alp Stabelchod, until the end of September, and they avoid the hot midday hours. Chamois show themselves all season, red deer from June to mid-October, especially in the Val Trupchun and near Il Fuorn; the rut begins in mid-September. Ibex are found at higher altitudes in summer, and bearded vultures and golden eagles use the thermals at midday and in the afternoon. You can rent binoculars at the park centre.

Zernez is considered the gateway to the park. Here you find the park administration in Planta-Wildenberg Castle and the park centre with the exhibition “Wildnis im Zentrum” and a special exhibition that changes every year. At the information desk you learn which hikes and guided excursions are on offer and what condition the trails are in. That is the most important information before a hike, because the park accepts no liability for trail reports: the signage on site applies.

You cross the border into Switzerland: bring ID, and pay in Swiss francs or by card. By its own account the abbey also accepts euros. Switzerland is outside the EU customs territory, and EU mobile roaming does not apply.

The park's trails are usually open from mid-May to mid-November; start and end depend on weather and altitude. In winter the park is a wildlife quiet zone and cannot be walked. Check the condition of the trails on the park's website. Müstair, by contrast, is a destination all year; according to the abbey, museum and shop are open daily, with hours that change with the season.

The park offers activities for children, including the Champlönch children's trail, the Margunet nature trail and the Senda da l'uors bear adventure trail, as well as the Schmelzra museum in S-charl. None of the trails is suitable for pushchairs. At the abbey in Müstair the museum in the Planta Tower is the main draw for children; the abbey has its own programme for children and families.

In the park itself, on the Ofen Pass road, stands the Hotel Parc Naziunal Il Fuorn; the Chamanna Cluozza in the Val Cluozza is the only staffed hut in the national park and can only be reached on foot. In Müstair and Santa Maria you will find further inns; the Val Müstair guest information helps with the choice.

On the same day Müstair combines with Glurns or Lake Reschen; the national park needs a whole day. In summer the Umbrail Pass leads from Müstair to the Stelvio Pass, and in winter both passes are closed. And the Uina Gorge lies in the neighbouring Lower Engadin and has its own page.

Ferienhotel Kastellatz stands in Prämajur at 1,740 m. The abbey in Müstair is 20 kilometres and about 30 minutes by car; the figures are in the “From the hotel” block. In the evening you are back at the hotel, with dinner and the panoramic indoor pool.

By car: From Prämajur drive down to Burgeis and Mals and on via Glurns and Taufers to the border at Müstair; the abbey is in the village, with the car park and bus stop directly opposite. For the national park, continue from Müstair over the Ofen Pass: to Hotel Il Fuorn in the middle of the park it is about 42 kilometres and 55 minutes from Prämajur, to Zernez about 59 kilometres and 80 minutes.

By bus and train: According to the abbey, the PostBus runs hourly from Zernez to the abbey door and on to Mals; from Mals bus line 277 takes you back to Prämajur. With the Reschensee Guest Pass the ride to Müstair is included in your stay. Check timetables on suedtirolmobil.info before you travel.